Applying semiotic theory to high end fashion advertising

Roland Barthes and semiotic theory - 'the symphony of codes'

The Ely Sinfonia. Orchestral music works by lots of instruments coming together to produce a harmonious sound. Barthes argued that media products worked in the same way, with musicians replaced with codes.

• Barthes argued that media products communicate a complex series of meanings to their audiences through a range of visual codes and technical codes. 
• A code is anything that means something. It could be a costume, a colour, a facial expression, a shot type; anything.
• Barthes suggested a number of different code functions, that themselves combine to construct meaning.  For example, we have the proairetic, symbolic, hermeneutic, referential, and so on.
• After many years of codes being repeated, their meaning can become generally agreed upon by society. For example, a scar on the face of a character can function as a hermeneutic code, indicating to the audience that they are ‘the villain’.

Barthesian codes 

Codes refer to any element of media language that creates meaning for the audience. Here are three of the most important examples

Hermeneutic codes

Also known as enigma codes, these refer to something within the media product that creates mystery or suspense

Proairetic codes

Also known as action codes, this refers to something within a media product that suggests that something will happen

Symbolic codes

Something within a media product that creates a deeper meaning for the audience

Task - analyse the promotional image at the top of this post, making explicit reference to both media language and Barthes' symphony

• The beach is a model, which is symbolic of being fake. Yet is also constructs a perfect, delightful beach scene. By association, this idea of flawless perfection can be ap[plied to Gucci.
• The MES of the model’s smile is connotative of her confidence and happiness. The model’s enormous size provides anchorage here, and constructed a sense of superiority and confidence. The model’s confident pose functions as a proairetic code, and suggests that she is headed to the beach . 
• The MES of the graphic logo on the model’s swimsuit functions as a symbolic code. The representation of a palm tree symbolises holidays, the West coast of America, and luxury. By including the logo so prominently, Gucci are explicitly promoting their brand and associating it with all the positive vibes.
• The colour palette is dominated by warm colours, and is connotative of sunsets and luxury, and reinforces the idea that Gucci is a luxury brand 
• The sheer size of the model constructs a powerful hermeneutic code, and asks the audience why she is so big. The sight of a huge woman ‘attacking’ a miniature city makes reference to vintage monster films from the early days of cinema, and constructs a nostalgic mode of address. The fakeness of the town creates a contrast with the explicit reality of the woman, and suggests the the quality of the product. 
• The tie dye colour scheme is symbolic of the 1980s, and the positive colours suggest that the world itself revolves around Gucci. 

 

Gucci Lunar New Year campaign 2022

• The model is lying in a relaxed manner. Her composure is anchored through her facial expression, which seems to lack any emotion. Her expressionless face functions as a proairetic code, and suggests that the model will have a relaxing evening lying on the sofa. 
• The model’s expression is polysemic, and also functions as an hermeneutic code, asking the audience why she seems to lack any emotion. However, the audience will also be confused as to the mise en scene of the enormous tiger lying at her feed. This combination of codes constructs a sense of confidence, relaxation, and control. By extension, the advert symbolically infers that Gucci is a powerful brand worn by powerful people. 
• The tiger itself is symbolic of exoticism, power and foreign countries. This sense of exoticism is anchored and emphasised through the heavy use of silk, a material associated with wealth and east asian nations. The archetecture is also reminiscent of east asian classical archetecture. Finally, the ethnicity of the model is used to symbolise a sense of East Asian culture, and is clearly an attempt by Gucci to target Chinese audience
• The golden colours symbolise a fiery personality, while the colour blue symbolises calm. However the colours of the setting itself is drab and uninteresting… or is is symbolic of gold and material wealth? It anchors the notion that the model is rich and powerful.
• There are many complex patterns that threaten to odminate the image, yet they are balanced out by the subtle and elegant colour scheme. This is symbolic of the cool and stylish nature of Gucci, and stands as a counterpoint to the stereotype of rich people living in pristine white houses
• The colour gold is connotative of wealth, and the MES of the tiger further symbolises a luxurious lifestyle. It suggests that Gucci is associated with wealthy and luxurious lifestyles.
• The function of an advert is to sell not a product but a lifestyle and identity. The MES of the old fashioned landline phone here symbolises generational wealth, and suggests that Gucci is targeting a particularly privileged demographic. However, it also makes reference to an idealised and romanticised vision of the 1990s, of teen movies and teenage dreams